In eastern Cuba, there is no refreshment more delicious than prú, nor is there one more popular, whether among those with 2 CUP in their wallet or those with 20 CUC in their pocket. This marvelous drink was created to be the arch-nemesis of the heat that so relentlessly strikes this region.
Root champagne, root beer, prú oriental, or simply "prú," as many call it, is a refreshing beverage of great significance, as it encapsulates part of the essence of the Eastern Cuban identity with its French heritage.
The elders say that the fermented brew gave strength to the slaves to carry out the hard agricultural tasks, uplifted their spirits, and cured diseases, especially due to its hypotensive, purifying, and diuretic effects. Since then, the prú has been a blessing in this part of the world.
Benefits of the Eastern Prú
The fame of the prú, aside from being refreshing, is attributed to its medicinal properties. It is very beneficial for those suffering from kidney stones, stomach aches, or high blood pressure. It is also considered an aphrodisiac for those in search of wonderful solutions, although this has not been scientifically proven; it is a popular belief.
There are those who attribute other properties to prú. It is said to purify when consumed, as it helps eliminate cholesterol and other bad fats. It is energizing, refreshing, and cleanses various systems of the human body, including the renal system.
It is also said to be an analgesic, digestive, antioxidant, and antihistaminic drink that relieves cough and fatigue. It has antiseptic and anticoagulant properties, although it is not recommended for consumption during pregnancy and should not be given to small children.
Beyond Myth and Orality
Over the years, the traditional drink has undergone transformations, and its original secrets often come through oral tradition and occasional research that touches on the French influence on Cuban culture.
It is said that it arrived in the east of Cuba with the migrations of French settlers and their slaves. The recipe, as originally presented, has been simplified today partly because it has become, beyond its cultural significance, a means of livelihood for low-income families or those seeking extra income.
Originally, soapstone sticks, ubí vine, leaves from the pepper tree, ginger, Chinese root, a few grams of cinnamon sticks, water, and brown or dark sugar were used. A "mother" is also required, which is just a bit of already made prú, that is, fermented beverage.
Some people comment that in the past, once the cooking was finished, the concoction was often bottled in containers with leaves of holy cane.
In some areas of eastern Cuba, palm roots and pine shoots were added to the cooking process, and not a few would include aguardiente. However, these details are no longer practiced today. Those who make prú now are unfamiliar with them, at least in the urban areas of Santiago de Cuba.
Orality refers to the practice of burying the containers with the beverage to be fermented underground for three days (if it had a "mother") and up to five days if it required more time (when it didn't have previously prepared prú), a tradition that very few people still practice today.
Currently, it is preferred to place the drink in plastic bottles, known as "balitas," and leave them in the sun to speed up the process. Other details, secrets, of the artisanal production of this marvelous drink have simply been swallowed by time.
Root champagne, root beer... sustenance for some families
The original recipe for preparing the famous Eastern prú and its variations is not fully adhered to today.
Within a few families, it remains a delightful drink that is consumed for pleasure. Those who prepare it the most today are the ones doing so for commercial purposes.
The daily wear and tear and the difficulty in obtaining certain ingredients have led to the original recipe evolving, out of convenience, towards the almost exclusive use of pepper leaf (for flavor), Chinese root (for color), and soapwort (for effervescence).
"But if you want it even simpler, just add the pepper leaf and the small soap, substitute the Chinese root with brown sugar, and you'll notice that in the end, it has the same color," assures Ángela, a skilled veteran in the making of prú and the illegal sale of the tasty concoction.
"I make about 50 pesos a day when I do it on my own, and sometimes even more, but I don't overdo it either; this is just to supplement my income," he comments.
The main problem for this woman, like that of any self-employed person in Cuba, is obtaining the raw materials. She must navigate the margins of legality, the "situational" epidemiological conditions, and the intermittent supply of fuels, such as liquefied gas.
"I don't need many things; however, the ingredients are only sold in certain places, which makes it difficult. Moreover, when there are cholera outbreaks, as there have been, the sale of this drink is prohibited, even though the ingredients are boiled during its preparation. So, for this reason and more, I do it illegally; after all, I'm constantly struggling between getting raw materials and whether or not I’m allowed to sell."
Additionally, he acknowledges that the precarious situation of liquefied gas is complicating the production of prú. “At my age, I'm not in a position to be lighting coal or wood stoves; gas is the simplest option. But can you imagine boiling pot after pot? It drains the gas canister. So right now, I'm thinking of suspending sales until the gas situation is regulated. This is how we live: adrift.”
When you buy a prú from this lady, the first thing you notice is that she says, "I'm making it strong, I'm telling you so you don't faint right here. Also, don't shake the bottle, it will explode and stain the floor and your clothes, and if you do, be sure to put your hand underneath; the heat makes it stay in. That's an old trick."
After several centuries of artisanal preparation of this delicious beverage, it is now produced industrially in the provinces of Granma and Santiago de Cuba and sold in its own commercial containers. However, it is common for it to lack the same flavor and almost never appears in establishments.
"Some say that prú is from marginalized neighborhoods. It's not that it can't be sold anywhere, because it is sold in any neighborhood in Santiago de Cuba, but the truth is that it's more common for people to sell prú in certain places than in others. It's not a rule, but it tends to be sold more in humble neighborhoods, where people need to find money," he explains.
Once I had a Political Economy professor who, in a frank and explicit display of chauvinism, said that she preferred a good prú to a Coca Cola. At the time, I didn't understand it, until I experienced the effervescence of the famous drink of French origin.
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