"My dream, and my mother's, has always been to have a house here": Cuban tours the Barrio Obrero and relives nostalgia on social media

"This neighborhood has been one of the most sought-after places to live in Havana for many years."

Barrio Obrero: a journey through nostalgia and decay in HavanaPhoto © TikTok / @reiniercruz08

"This neighborhood for many years was one of the most desirable places to live in Havana," says user @reiniercruz08 at the start of a tour of Barrio Obrero, in San Miguel del Padrón. The video, published on TikTok, blends personal memories with a critical perspective on the transformation of a neighborhood that is no longer what he knew in his childhood.

"My dream and my mother’s dream have always been to have a house here, like this one, with a porch and a garden, but the truth is we were never able to have it because houses here have always been very expensive," she explains.

As she walks through its streets, she remembers: "This neighborhood was built in the 1950s, as part of the public works plan of President Ramón Grau Sanmartín." She mentions key places: "Here is also the secondary school 12 de septiembre, where I studied, and from which I have many bad memories, because I endured a lot of bullying at this school, and it was my worst period as a student."

It also notes: "There is a children's circle, though I don't remember its name, and a home for the elderly, as this neighborhood was designed to have all the amenities for the working class, which is why it was named Barrio Obrero." During the tour, he mentions two parks, including the "Herradura Park, which is quite well-known and located right across from Vía Blanca."

Regarding a very unique house, it is noted: “One cannot help but mention the famous Balloon House in this neighborhood. According to the internet, this house was built by an American trying to sell the house model, but the truth is, it never succeeded.”

Regarding the current state of the neighborhood, he reflects: “Perhaps with the crisis that currently exists in Cuba, things no longer cost the same, and the neighborhood, of course, is not what it used to be years ago.”

"That is my neighborhood."

The post sparked a wave of reactions from people who lived, studied, or still have relatives in the Barrio Obrero. “The circle was El Lucero,” commented one person. Another specified, “The circle is Lucerito and the home is Bernarda Toro.”

"I also studied at 12 de septiembre, and to be honest, I didn't have a good time either," wrote a user. To which the creator replied, "Same here." Someone else added, "I lived on E Street, between passage A and B, before reaching the balloon house. My mother-in-law lived there until she passed away; she lived next to Óscarito."

"My mom and my grandma lived for a couple of years in Barrio Obrero until they moved to Old Havana. My cousin lived there for 20 years until they came to the U.S.," wrote another user.

A woman pointed out, “I was born and raised there.” Another commented, “It was my neighborhood. That’s where I was born.” “My neighborhood where I grew up. I am Jojote from Barrio Obrero,” wrote someone who even noted that his mother still lives “across from the circle.”

A user reacted with nostalgia and surprise: “Hi, I was born and raised there. I went to Miami in '92 and didn’t leave it so destroyed. I’ve never been back and I don’t think I ever will. Oh God, it’s so destroyed.” And another added: “I didn’t live in that neighborhood, but I did study at 12 de septiembre.”

Familiar figures from the neighborhood were also recalled: "Doctor Débora is a relative of mine, and she bought a house on San Germán Street a few years ago." Another person noted: "Doctor Alina was the doctor at the medical office for many years."

"Every Sunday, I would walk down the alley to catch the bus to my IPUEC Primer Partido. And yes, owning a house there or in Monterrey or California was everyone's dream," wrote another user.

One of the most touching comments was: “That was my family's place and where I spent my early years. My father Lázaro Dávila, my uncle Coco, my grandparents Emilio and Bony. Thank you, you made me cry, Tayme.”

Others simply limited themselves to saying: “I studied there,” “That's my neighborhood,” “I always wanted to live in Barrio Obrero and couldn’t.”

The same user has documented in other videos the condition of streets and neighborhoods in Havana. In one of them, he shows a leak that has gone unresolved since his childhood on Gabriel Street, where he states: “When a water pipe breaks, you know how that process goes in Cuba… it can take a long time for them to come and fix it. Others are unfortunate enough to never get repaired.”

In another video, he walked through Obispo Street on a Saturday night and found it deserted: "It's a ghost street."

This type of publication aligns with other citizen testimonies that have shown the transformation of iconic spaces like the Suárez Gayol Stadium in Mariel, the deterioration of natural areas in Baracoa, the devastation of the former EIDE in Santa Clara, or the abandonment of the recreational center El Dorado in Boca Ciega.

The current state of La Esquina de Tejas, the ruins of the Emperador hotel in Cayo Coco, and other urban areas that were significant for entire generations have also been documented.

The video by @reiniercruz08 about Barrio Obrero contributes to a collective narrative where personal memories intersect with the physical deterioration of places and the resignation or emotional attachment that many still hold.

Frequently Asked Questions about the Barrio Obrero and its transformation in Havana

What is the history of the Barrio Obrero in Havana?

The Barrio Obrero in Havana was built in the 1950s under the public works plan of President Ramón Grau San Martín. This neighborhood was designed with all the necessary amenities for the working class, including schools, parks, and a nursing home.

How has the Barrio Obrero changed over the years?

Over the years, the Barrio Obrero has experienced significant deterioration, reflecting the economic crisis that Cuba is facing. The houses, which were once very expensive and desirable, no longer hold the same value, nor does the neighborhood have the same vitality, according to the testimonies of those who remember their childhood there.

Why has the Barrio Obrero video gone viral on TikTok?

The video from Barrio Obrero, created by user @reiniercruz08, has gone viral because it combines personal memories with a critical perspective on the neighborhood's transformation. It has sparked a wave of nostalgic and critical reactions on social media, as many users shared their experiences and emotions related to the area.

What iconic places are mentioned in the video about the Barrio Obrero?

In the video, several iconic places in Barrio Obrero are mentioned, such as the secondary school 12 de Septiembre, where the creator of the video studied and experienced bullying, and the famous Casa del Globo, built by an American with the intent of selling the house model, although it never succeeded. It also talks about the Herradura Park and a children's circle called El Lucero.

Filed under:

CiberCuba Editorial Team

A team of journalists committed to reporting on Cuban current affairs and topics of global interest. At CiberCuba, we work to deliver truthful news and critical analysis.